Valentino emerged as the must-see event of Paris Fashion Week, delivering a show that felt like a grand occasion.
The runway was set with shattered mirror tiles, gleaming like the remnants of a glittering ballroom after an earthquake. Armchairs and glowing lamps were draped in white sheets, creating the atmosphere of an estate left dormant through a long winter. Valentino, however, was ready to shed the past and embrace a new chapter.
This marked the triumphant return of Alessandro Michele, one of fashion’s most distinctive personalities. Known for his quirky style and intellectual approach, Michele, who previously transformed Gucci into a global sensation, has now taken the reins at Valentino. His debut at Valentino didn’t just signal a new era for the brand, but also ignited an intensified rivalry between these two titans of Italian fashion. To put it in non-fashion terms, this show felt like Jürgen Klopp taking charge at Manchester United—an electrifying moment in the industry.
Michele’s eclectic, bohemian style is a bold match for Valentino. The house, originally founded by Valentino Garavani—a man synonymous with old-world glamour and high society—now sees its Roman elegance fused with Michele’s signature mix of romantic nostalgia and edgy, youthful rebellion. Classic ladylike pieces were paired with nose rings, and haute bourgeois gowns were contrasted with playful bellhop jackets.
The models’ faces were adorned with veils and dramatic jewels, adding a sense of mystery and grandeur. Handbags dangled from chain straps in a carefree, almost childlike manner. Despite the seemingly chaotic fusion of styles, Michele’s vision was meticulous and cohesive, blending the nostalgia of Valentino’s 1970s archives with fresh, contemporary energy.
Each outfit told a story, and beneath the layers of playful experimentation was a precise, well-thought-out silhouette. The collection embraced Valentino’s iconic red, evoking its golden era, while breathing new life into its future.
Though Valentino is smaller than Gucci, Michele’s appointment signals a clear ambition to expand its global presence. His designs may not be for everyone, but they are undeniably captivating, with a flair for styling that resonates beyond the brand’s luxury price tags. The show introduced a range of accessories and trends—turban hats, lace tights, tiny black bows—that will likely be imitated far and wide.
Michele, a larger-than-life figure in fashion, has injected vibrancy into the tail end of the catwalk season. Describing his collection as “an enchantment of the world,” he spoke with poetic flair about inspiration drawn from life’s sensual and sacred experiences. As he greeted reporters in a red check shirt and jeans, he summed up his work simply: “It comes from the gut. It’s personal. But I’ve found a beautiful new home.”
