Would a steak au poivre by any other name taste as juicy? What if it featured only imitation “meat,” cleverly recombined vegetable protein disguised as beef?
For traditionalists in France—starting with farmers who rear the soon-to-be steaks—the answer is a resounding non. A decree passed in February, set to take effect on May 26th, mandates that all meaty terms, whether it be an entrecôte, jambon, or even a saucisse, are to be reserved exclusively for cuts of dead animals.
Why it matters:
This move aims to protect traditional farming and meat production industries from the rising tide of plant-based and lab-grown alternatives. French farmers argue that using traditional meat names for vegan products misleads consumers and undermines the cultural heritage tied to these foods.
Driving the news:
France’s decree is part of a broader trend in Europe, where countries are increasingly regulating food terminology. The European Union first restricted dairy terms in the 1980s, banning names like “soy milk” and “vegan yogurt,” forcing companies to adopt terms like “soya drink” and “oatgurt.”
The big picture:
As plant-based diets gain popularity, the nomenclature battle over food labeling has intensified. Supermarkets today are filled with products like vegan burger patties and “no-fish fingers.” This surge in plant-based alternatives has prompted traditional agricultural sectors to push back, fearing a loss of market share and cultural significance.
Context:
EU’s stance: The EU has long protected geographic and traditional food names, such as Champagne and Parmesan. A 2020 bid to ban terms like “vegetarian sausage” at the EU level narrowly failed, leaving individual countries to tackle the issue independently.
France’s move: The French ban on meaty terms for plant-based products was revived amidst farmers’ protests earlier this year, signaling a strategic response to agricultural lobbying.
Other countries: Italy has reserved “salami” for pork products, and Poland has considered similar regulations.
What they’re saying:
Critics argue that these regulations stifle innovation and confuse consumers rather than protect them. Startups in the plant-based and lab-grown meat industry see these rules as barriers to market entry and growth. They argue that clear, honest labeling should suffice without resorting to restrictive naming laws.
Proponents, particularly from traditional farming sectors, insist that these measures preserve the authenticity and cultural heritage of food products. They argue that terms like “steak” and “sausage” carry specific expectations about taste and quality that should not be diluted.
What’s next:
The implementation of France’s decree on May 26th will likely lead to legal challenges from the plant-based food industry. Companies may seek to adapt by creating new terms and marketing strategies to comply with the law while still appealing to consumers.
Between the lines:
The controversy highlights a broader clash between tradition and innovation in the food industry. As consumer preferences shift towards more sustainable and ethical food choices, traditional sectors are increasingly at odds with new, disruptive players.
The bottom line:
The meaty debate over food labeling is far from settled. As more countries consider similar regulations, the plant-based food industry will need to navigate a complex landscape of consumer expectations, legal restrictions, and cultural sensitivities.
For now, consumers in France looking for their plant-based fix will have to get used to new names for their favorite vegan products. Whether this will impact the market for these goods remains to be seen, but one thing is clear: the battle over what’s in a name is just heating up.