For Erchen Chang, co-founder of Bao, noodles are more than just food — they are ritual, memory, and comfort. Growing up in Taiwan in the early 2000s, her mornings often began with steaming bowls of oyster vermicelli, enriched with bonito broth, garlic, chilli, and coriander. That early connection to noodles has stayed with her in London, where she now seeks out bowls that match her mood — whether it’s a reset, a late-night comfort, or a celebratory indulgence.
Here are six of her favourite noodle spots across London:
1. Koya
Celebrating 15 years, Koya remains one of the city’s most soulful noodle houses. Its signature udon noodles are kneaded by foot for perfect bounce and paired with a light yet deeply flavoured bonito broth. Chang favours simple dishes like kitsune or prawn tempura udon, complemented by the signature onsen egg. With branches across the city, the City location is especially convenient for her.
- Opening hours: Mon-Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9.30pm
2. Miga
Tucked away in east London, Miga specialises in homestyle Korean cooking. The ox-bone broth noodles are the highlight: simmered for hours into a clean yet deeply rich soup. Chang enjoys pairing each spoonful with bites of kimchi, creating a rhythm of balance and warmth.
- Opening hours: Tue 5pm–10.30pm; Wed–Thu 12pm–3pm, 5.30pm–10.30pm; Fri–Sat 12pm–3pm, 5.30pm–11pm
3. Mandarin Kitchen
A West London institution since 1978, Mandarin Kitchen is famed for its lobster noodles, cooked in oyster sauce, ginger, and spring onion before being portioned tableside. With its banquet-style interior and celebratory atmosphere, it’s a place Chang associates with gatherings and anniversaries.
- Opening hours: Daily 12pm–11pm
4. Lanzhou Lamian
Known for its hand-shaved noodles, this spot is a late-night favourite. Chang particularly enjoys the tomato and egg noodles — thick, chewy, and satisfyingly savoury with a touch of MSG. Watching chefs shave and pull noodles to order adds to the unfussy, grounding charm.
- Opening hours: Mon–Fri 10am–2am; Sat 10am–5am; Sun 10am–11pm
5. Four Seasons (Wardour Street)
During the early days of Bao Soho, Four Seasons became Chang’s regular pit stop. The roast duck noodles are her go-to: springy wonton noodles in a simple broth topped with rich, juicy roast duck, finished with a touch of chilli oil. It remains her choice for a worker’s lunch or quiet comfort meal.
- Opening hours: Sun–Thu 12pm–11pm; Fri–Sat 12pm–11.30pm
6. Old Town 97
For Chang and her team, Old Town 97 has long been the go-to late-night destination after busy shifts. The char kway teow — flat rice noodles stir-fried with prawns, roast meats, egg, chives, and beansprouts — delivers the smoky wok hei flavour that makes the dish unforgettable. Beyond the food, it became a space for decompressing and sharing stories at the end of long nights.
- Opening hours: Daily 12pm–3.30am
A Culinary Map of Memories
For Erchen Chang, each of these noodle bowls offers more than taste — they serve as anchors in the city, tied to specific moments, moods, and people. Together, they reflect London’s rich, diverse noodle culture, spanning Japanese, Korean, Chinese, and Southeast Asian traditions.
