Nestled between Venice’s lagoon and the Adriatic Sea lies the Lido di Venezia, a slender island stretching 12km long and just 1km wide at its broadest point. Known globally for hosting the Venice International Film Festival (Mostra di Venezia) each late August and early September, the Lido has long been associated with glamour and exclusivity. Yet its history and charm extend well beyond the red carpet.
A Golden Island of History and Elegance
For centuries, the Lido served as Venice’s maritime shield and trading port. Figures such as Lord Byron frequented the island in the 19th century, drawn to its vast beaches for galloping on horseback. By the early 20th century, the island earned the nickname “Isola d’Oro” (Golden Island), a summer playground for aristocrats and industrialists, with golden sands, elegant villas, and proximity to Venice’s casinos and cultural riches. Even icons like Coco Chanel holidayed here, cementing its reputation as a destination for Europe’s elite.
When to Visit and How to Get There
Travel experts recommend avoiding the peak of the film festival season unless one specifically seeks the festival atmosphere. To experience the Lido authentically, plan to stay more than just a couple of days. Most summer visitors are Italians from the Veneto region, returning for weeks at a time.
The island is easily reached via vaporetto (water bus) from Venice. While Line 1 caters heavily to tourists with many stops, Lines 2, 5.2, or 6 provide faster connections to Lido Santa Maria Elisabetta, the main vaporetto station, and entry point to the bustling Granviale Santa Maria Elisabetta, the island’s central street.
Getting Around and Staying There
The Lido is best explored on foot or by bicycle. Bikes can be rented for around €12 a day, especially useful for reaching the northern and southern ends of the island. Accommodation ranges from luxury stays at the Hotel Excelsior—favoured by celebrities during the festival—to rental apartments in Liberty-style villas from the island’s early 20th-century boom. Flats typically cost €200–€400 per night if booked in advance.
Beach Culture and the Capanna Tradition
Unlike many Mediterranean destinations, most of the Lido’s beaches are private. Access usually requires renting a capanna—a beach hut with sunbeds, chairs, and shaded space—costing anywhere between €100 and €300 per day. The most prestigious rentals are at the Excelsior and Des Bains 1900, long associated with distinguished guests like Thomas Mann, Winston Churchill, and Audrey Hepburn. Families often rent capanne for weeks at a time, maintaining strict routines of sunbathing, siestas, and beach games.
For budget-conscious travellers, alternatives exist. At Bluemoon Beach, parasols with sunbeds can be rented for €45 per day. Free public beaches, such as Murazzi, attract younger visitors, though facilities are limited compared with the private clubs.
Dining and Aperitivo
After a day on the beach, evenings on the Lido revolve around aperitivo culture. The renowned Al Mercà, a former fishmonger’s shop, is a favourite for spritz and cicchetti. Visitors mingle at its outdoor tables, often donning traditional Venetian footwear and soaking up the lively, local atmosphere. For dinner, top choices include:
- Osteria Gera Ora – Known for cicchetti and Venetian classics at fair prices.
- Osteria Giardinetto – Offers excellent wine and non-Italian dishes for variety.
Prices for meals typically range from €14–€38 depending on the course.
Beyond the Beach
Though much of Lido life revolves around sun and sea, there are activities that enrich a longer stay:
- Visit Faro San Nicolò lighthouse and the nearby historic Church of San Nicolò.
- Explore Aeroporto Nicelli, a historic airfield now hosting exhibitions.
- Play a round at Circolo Golf Club, commissioned in 1928 after Henry Ford challenged Count Volpi di Misurata, co-founder of the Venice Film Festival.
- Join locals for Ferragosto celebrations on August 15, capped with fireworks and beach festivities.
- Wander among the Liberty-style villas, still occupied by residents, or pick up a copy of Lido di oggi, Lido di allora (Lido Today, Lido Then), an annual magazine chronicling the island’s history.
A Timeless Retreat
The Venice Lido offers more than a glamorous escape; it is a place where history, culture, and leisure intersect. Whether strolling its villas, sipping spritz at sunset, or embracing the dolce far niente lifestyle, the Lido remains a unique blend of Venetian tradition and seaside luxury—a summer destination unlike any other in Europe.
